Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Isle of Tiree – my top things to see and do

I love a Scottish island escape. What’s not to love about beautiful beaches, blissful solitude, friendly locals, native wildlife, fascinating history and delicious food, fresh from Scotland’s bountiful natural larder. In my last post I shared the fabulous Isle of Colonsay with you. This time I’m taking you back to the Inner Hebrides to share the highlights of an autumn 2019 break on the Isle of Tiree.

Getting to Tiree

The Isle of Tiree is reached via ferry from Oban on Scotland’s West Coast.

We had to check in for our 3 hour 50 minute crossing at bleary eye o’clock and by 7:10 a.m. were bound for the most westerly of the islands in the Inner Hebrides.

It was a dreich morning, but cosy aboard the ferry. CalMac do a fab Scottish breakfast, so we were tucking into haggis, tattie scones and slice sausage by the time Lismore Lighthouse came into view.

There was something really comforting about seeing the intermittent blink of the lighthouse through the gloom.

Lismore Lighthouse

Where we stayed on the Isle of Tiree

There’s a variety of tourist accommodation on Tiree, ranging from small hotel to glamping pod. We stayed at Rockvale Guest House by Balephetrish Bay. It was a lovely rural location a few miles from the ferry terminal at Scarinish.

We were delighted with our choice of accommodation. The boy was too, when he discovered a personalised goody bag waiting for him on arrival.

Rockvale Guest House, Isle of Tiree

Our ground floor room was modern and spacious, with a sofa to lounge on and an en-suite with a bath. I love a bath for soaking tired muscles after a day spent rambling. One of the highlights of our stay at Rockvale Guest House were the daily visits from the home baking fairy, who left us scrumptious flapjacks to tuck into.

Mornings at Rockvale started with a tasty, cooked breakfast. We feasted on porridge with banana and chocolate, poached eggs with spinach and mushrooms and smoked salmon and scrambled egg – all excellent.

Rockvale Guest House, Isle of TireeRockvale Guest House, Isle of Tiree

Evenings were spent unwinding in the guest lounge, drinking wine and watching fabulous sunsets.

Rockvale Guest House, Isle of TireeRockvale Guest House, Isle of Tiree

Now you know how we got to Tiree and where we stayed, here are some of the things we enjoyed doing while we were there.

Bagging a modest peak or two

Billy Connolly once described Tiree as being “like a bloody billiard table”. And it is, with the exception of a couple of modest hills.

While on the island we definitely weren’t going to pass up the opportunity to bag a view with minimal effort.

Beinn Hynish – 141 metres

Mr G had been banging on about climbing Beinn Hynish (the highest point on the island) from the minute we set foot on Tiree. I suggested he bide his time and wait for a blue sky day, as sunshine was forecast. Tiree is one of the sunniest places in Scotland, so I was hopeful the forecast would be correct.

Reluctantly he agreed and his patience paid off. We tackled the ben on a gloriously, sunny day – our last on the Isle of Tiree.

Setting off up a single track road, we twisted and turned our way towards the summit of Ben Hynish. The incline was gradual, not relentless (my type of hill). The higher we went, the better the view was. We stopped frequently to snap photos, so were never going to bag the hill in record time. That didn’t bother us though, as we were outdoors, there wasn’t another human to be see and the sun was shining.

Ben Hynish

Our progress up Beinn Hynish was hampered further, near the summit when we stopped to swing imaginary golf clubs at a giant ‘golf ball’. Mr G is handy with a golf club, but there was no way he’d be teeing off this bad boy.

The golf ball, Ben Hynish

Once on the summit and with the golf ball (a civil aviation radar station) behind us, we were rewarded with an amazing view. We could even see the mighty Skerryvore Lighthouse standing on its rocky skerry 11 miles out to sea.

Ben Hynish

Buzzing after finding a bit of elevation, we were raring to bag another Isle of Tiree summit.

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Beinn Hough – 119 metres

Beinn Hough is the second highest point on Tiree and like Beinn Hynish the summit is reached via a tarmac track. This was my favourite of the two island peaks we bagged. Not only was the view from the top phenomenal, but the hill had two high points joined by a pass (bealach na beinn). Beinn Hough offered far better rambling potential than its modest height suggested.

Beinn Hough

The view from the top was expansive, taking in the Outer Hebrides, Inner Hebrides and the Mainland. We could see the entire length (10 miles) and breadth (5 miles) of Tiree.

The boy seemed to like the view too. He stood admiring it, before settling down to bask in the autumn sunshine.

We joined him.

Beinn HoughBeinn Hough

After a short breather we made our way across the bealach towards the other high point on Beinn Hough.

It was topped by a small concrete building which had been used as a RAF observation post during WWII.

Beinn Hough

With a 360 degree panoramic view, it was easy to see why the RAF had chosen the spot.

Beinn HoughIsle of Tiree

Wildlife watching on the Isle of Tiree

Besides bagging hills, we also enjoyed a spot of wildlife watching while on Tiree.

The Brown Hare is one of my favourite native beasties and I was in luck, as they’re abundant on Tiree. We spotted them all over the island, but each new sighting was a thrill. They’re such beautiful creatures.

Brown hareBrown hare

The island was teeming with geese too, resting as they made their way to spend winter in warmer climes.  It was wonderful to watch them flying overhead.

Tiree is a twitcher’s paradise. We spotted loads of birds besides geese during our time there, including the Oystercatcher, Manx Shearwater, Kittiwake.

Isle of Tiree wildlife

Seals are a common sight on our travels, but that doesn’t make watching them any less enjoyable. We discovered several good seal spotting locations dotted around Tiree. One of our favourites was near Balephuil where we were able to observe a colony of Harbour Seals swimming and basking in the autumn sunshine (all from a safe distance, so as not to disturb them).

Harbour Seals Tiree

And no Scottish road trip would be complete without stopping to say hello to an adorable heilan’ coo or two.

Highland CattleIsle of Tiree

Or, to have your every move watched by curious sheep.

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Visiting Tiree’s historic sites

The majority of our Scottish road trips involve, hiking, wildlife and history and Tiree was no different.

There were plenty of historic sites on the island to keep this history geek happy.

Dun Mor Broch, Vaul

I love a good broch (even more than a castle), so I was never going to visit the island, without seeing Dun Mor Broch. Parking at Vaul Bay we set off across one of the boggiest sections of terrain we’ve ever set foot on in Scotland (and that’s saying something). Mr G was not amused and complained about my history obsession ruining his footwear. Ignoring him, boggy doggy and I squelched on undeterred.

When we finally reached the broch, Mr G forgot about his soggy feet and started snapping photos of the remarkable Iron Age structure and the lovely Tiree coastline it was sitting on.

It’s thought the broch once stood around 8 metres high. Although it’s height has been much diminished over the years, it’s still an impressive structure. And when you consider it was built without any mortar to hold it together, it’s even more impressive.

The original purpose of brochs is lost in time, but there’s a theory they were defensive structures – the forerunner to the castle. To me, that seems plausible, given the thickness of the walls and the fact they have guard cells by the entrance.

What I love most about brochs, is that we’ll never really know why they were built, so they’ll always have an air of mystery to them.

Dun Mor Broch, Isle of TireeDun Mor Broch, Isle of Tiree

The Ringing stone (Clach a’ Chiore)

One of most unusual historic sites I’ve visited in Scotland is Tiree’s ‘Ringing Stone’. The giant erratic was dragged to the Tiree shoreline from the Isle of Rum during the last Ice Age. The stone bears 53 carved cup marks of various sizes, believed to date back to 2,500 BC. When struck, the cup marks emit a metallic ringing sound (some more than others). The significance of the stone is unknown, but it may have been used for ceremonial purposes.

To reach the Ringing Stone, we had to limbo under an electric fence. Tiptoe through a field with two bulls in it, then another with cows blocking the path (bovines are my hiking Achilles Heel). After electricity and livestock came bog, followed by the needle in a haystack challenge of finding a stone on a rocky shoreline.

It was instantly recognisable though and was worth the effort it took to reach.

Ringing stone, Isle of Tiree Ringing stone, Isle of Tiree

We had fun, tapping the cup marks with pebbles and listening to them ringing. Mr G was particularly taken by the stone and tapped away as happy as Larry.

And then, the stone struck back.

Tap, tap, tap, tap – ouch.

Luckily, he found it funny (despite his sore fingers). We were roaring with laughter as we squelched our way back through the bog, past the coos and bulls and under the electric fence to conclude our walk.

Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum

No trip to the Isle of Tiree would be complete without visiting the Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum at Hynish. The museum tells the story of Scotland’s tallest lighthouse (48 metres), which stands on a treacherous, rocky reef 11 miles off the coast of Tiree. Skerryvore blinked into life in February 1844. Since then it’s been a guiding light to many a ship, that may once have floundered on the skerry.

Alan Stevenson (it’s not a Scottish lighthouse, if it’s not a Stevenson lighthouse) designed the lighthouse, and he and the workers who built it (including 80 stonemasons) were based on Tiree. Their lodgings, workshops and the dock they used to transport building materials to Skerryvore have survived.

Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum, Isle of Tiree

The museum gives a fascinating insight into the effort involved in building such a remarkable feat of engineering from a small Scottish island, and also what it was like to live and work at Scotland’s remotest lighthouse.

Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum, Isle of Tiree

If you visit the museum on a clear day you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the iconic lighthouse rising from the sea.

Skerryvore Lighthouse seen from TireeSkerryvore Lighthouse seen from Tiree

Discovering beautiful beaches on the Isle of Tiree

The Isle of Tiree boasts 16 beautiful beaches, making the island a popular destination for beach lovers and water sports enthusiasts alike.

Each beach we visited rewarded us with something different.

At Gott Bay we watched kite surfers having fun on the waves, their colourful kites fluttering in the wind.

Kite surfers Isle of Tiree

Caolas was the ultimate in blissful calm. There we saw a fishing boat bobbing on an incredible turquoise sea and enjoyed views across to the islands of Gunna and Coll.

Isle of TireeIsle of Tirew

The boy loved Tiree, which was hardly a surprise given the number of fabulous beaches the island has to offer – Balephetrish and Hynish were his particular favourites. He was in seventh heaven, charging around with the wind in his hair and his ears pinned back.

The happy wee lad was a joy to watch.

Scottish travel blogIsle of Tiree

Rainbows made a frequent appearance during our time on the Isle of Tiree. We were lucky enough to catch a couple of beachside crackers at Vaul Bay and Balemartine.

Who needs a pot of gold, when the best things in life are free.

Rainbow Isle of Tiree Rainbow Isle of Tiree

Scotland’s beaches are littered with the remains of boats and those on Tiree were no exception. At Scarinish we discovered the remains of the ‘Mary Stuart’ emerging from the sand. The trading ship was laid up at Scarinish in 1938 and since then time and nature have taken their toll on her.

Wreck of Mary Stuart Scaranish

And with so many lovely beaches and crystal clear Hebridean water, who could resist a paddle on a visit to Tiree.

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And there you have it – the highlights of a wonderful trip to Tiree. I hope you’ve enjoyed this armchair tour of the island.

Stay turned for more virtual tours of Scotland coming soon.

Until next time, stay safe …

28 thoughts on “Isle of Tiree – my top things to see and do”

  1. The missus and I have booked a converted croft for June next year.
    I loved your blog, better than some of the government promoted articles – down to earth!
    Can,t wait to visit.

  2. My ancestors are from Tiree/Tyree (I’ve seen it both ways) and I am dying to explore my family history live and in living colour. I live in the states so it’ll take some time given this COVID mess. Samantha, would you at all mind if I used your photo here: as a part of the banner for the sub of Scottish’s piece of Reddit? Casper is majestic portrays all things Scottish in that photo… Of course, I’ll let you see how the banner looks before I submit it to Reddit.

    1. Tiree is a beautiful island. I hope you get to see it some day. Unfortunately I don’t allow use of my images in articles or websites unless they’ve been specifically commissioned for an article. I hope you’ll understand.

  3. I have always had an interest in Scotland and a couple of years ago, when I had my DNA done, I discovered that 51% of my DNA is Scottish. Hmmmm. Also, I have a 9 year old Westie girl and was delighted to come across your blog. She loves to travel as well and we have so much fun with her. We live on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Can. Thank you so much for sharing your travels.

    1. I’m so glad you enjoy the blog. Westies are great travelling companions aren’t they. 😊

  4. What a delight, held up at home in Melbourne I just loved my travels to Tiree so thanks Samantha. Many wonderful memories of staying in my family crofters cottage in 1976 in Scarinish.

  5. Hello Samantha
    Looks like a lovely place to visit *scribblingonmylistforlater* 🙂 I love a remote island.
    Stay safe,

    1. It’s a beautiful place to visit and a worthy addition to your must visit list. 😊

    1. 😀 He loved his stay (we all did). Wonderful accommodation on a beautiful island. X

  6. A great post and such lovely photographs. However, I can think of many things I have had, but porridge and chocolate is a new one. Lovely to see the Wee White Dug enjoying himself, and didn’t you tell Mr. G that he is supposed to keep his fingers out of the way..

    1. I’ve since adapted the porridge recipe for our self catering travel and added coconut too – it’s delicious and great fuel for a day outdoors. Mr G always learns the hard way. 😂

  7. Oh wow Tiree looks an island paradise to me! I’ve visited Staffa Iona via Mull/Oban briefly and loved them. Would love to return. The wildlife was stunning. Thank you for this blog and Beautiful photos not to mention the chuckle at Mr G ringing the stone 🙊😉

    1. Ha ha – who needs clowns with Mr G around. Tiree is beautiful, you should visit next time your island hopping.

  8. Someone once told me that Tiree is not worth visiting. From your blog I would disagree. Looks like a wildlife paradise and that white sand. Good to see Casper charging around and Mr G’s face at the ringing stone – I laughed!
    Hope you are all well – how’s Casper coping with the lockdown. Stay safe.

    1. Someone misinformed you. It’s a beautiful island. You’d love it. We’ll all well thanks. Hope you are too.

    2. love this island all of the isles have a special attraction,natural
      I cant wait to see it

  9. great to see Casper hoon-ing around those beautiful beaches – looks like he’s having the time of his life! Nothing expresses a joie de vivre like a dog on a beach!

    1. He loved the island and looked like he was smiling the whole time we were there. It was lovely to see him so happy.

  10. I love reading your (and Casper’s!) lovely travels but don’t leave a comment very often. Tiree is definitely on my list along with many other west coast islands, it’s just hard to choose sin’ce I’d rather see them all. So great to see these beautiful images and a happy little dog on the beaches.

    1. You’ll love Tiree, it’s a lovely island and easy to explore. I hope you get to see it for yourself soon.

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