Isle of Mull – Dreich, drookit but delightful

We recently enjoyed a short break on the Isle of Mull last week. A wonderful time was had by all, despite Noah building an ark after less rainfall.

Crianlarich bound for a stay at Ben More Lodges

Our break started with an overnight stay at Crianlarich.

We took our time en route there, stopping to take photos and wander in the spring sunshine. Sadly, it wasn’t to last.

We had lunch at the super, dog friendly Capercaillie in Killin. The eatery is a favourite of ours. It’s a red squirrel hot spot too. They can often be seen in Capercaillie’s woodland garden.

That evening, we stayed at Ben More Lodges, where we unwound over dinner and drinks.

The next morning, we rose early for a hearty cooked breakfast (including the boy, who feasted on sausages), before heading to Oban to catch the Mull ferry.

Sailing out of a gloomy Oban

When we arrived in Oban, we caught our first glimpse of a moody looking Isle of Mull in the distance.

Boarding a CalMac ferry always makes me happy, as it means we’re heading to a gorgeous Hebridean destination. For me Mull is the jewel in the Hebridean crown. I’ve always adored the island. It has everything – breathtaking scenery, wildlife, pretty villages and history in abundance.

A soggy hike to Langamull Beach

Back on our favourite island, we were keen to immerse ourselves in the landscape immediately. We decided to spend a couple of hours hiking to Langamull Beach before lunch.  As we drove towards the starting point for our walk, the weather was looking increasingly ominous. Donning waterproofs (and a smart red hiking jacket for the boy), we set off. Before long we were being battered by wind and sideways rain falling rain.

We were soon drookit. Drookit is a wonderfully, expressive Scots word for soaking wet.  If it’s new to you, why not casually throw it into a conversation to confuse your friends and family. Try – ‘That rain fair came lashin’ doom – ahm drookit.”

We battled on through the wind and rain – Mr G because I’d raved about Langamull Beach and me because I wanted to combine the walk with a visit to an abandoned settlement on our return journey. Mr G didn’t know about the latter thought – yet.

The photos may make it look like I’ve exaggerated my description of the weather. I haven’t though – what you’re seeing here are the magical colours of the Hebrides. Even on a dreich day the water is a gorgeous turquoise colour. Contrasted against golden sand and the grasses of the machair, it’s easy to forget your face is throbbing from a combination of wind, rain and sand hitting it at 25mph.  It’s no wonder the Scottish Colourists loved to paint these beautiful islands. They cry out to be captured in watercolour.

Despite the weather, we all enjoyed our visit to Langamull Beach.  As we started to trudge back to the car, I was quietly planning how to break the news to Mr G that we were off to trample round an overgrown and very wet field to look at piles of old stones.

Kildavie Settlement

When we reached a signpost pointing towards Kildavie, I decided lying would be best. I told Mr G, it was the return route back to the car park. In reality, it was more an added detour. As we walked I casually mentioned some ruins nearby, while trying to sound vague and disinterested. Then, as if by magic – they were there in front of us. Kildavie or Cill Da Bhide in Gaelic, is an abandoned settlement. The stone foundations of a number of buildings are still visible. Archaeological work is ongoing but it’s already given up some clues as to what life was like for the people who lived there.

Not sharing my passion for history, Mr G was clearly bored to tears.

Luckily, my fib about the settlement being on our route back to the car was indeed true. Recent tree felling had created a circular walk, as opposed to one with an optional detour on it – phew.

Weighed down under heavy, wet clothing our walk back to the car seemed to take an age. The Wee White Dug soldiered on stoically though – the little trooper that he is.

The best soup EVER at The Belachroy Inn

We decided to visit the dog friendly Ballachroy at nearby Dervaig for lunch. Established in 1608, the Bellachroy is Mull’s oldest inn.

Inside, we peeled off our wet layers and were shown to a table for lunch. There was a moment of panic when the waitress announced there were two soups. Potato & cabbage and enough for one portion of carrot & coriander. Neither of us wanted the cabbage soup, but having Mr G to rainy ruins, I took one for the team and let him have the carrot & coriander. Our soup starter would be followed by a second starter – haggis bonbons.

When our soups arrived, mine looked like swamp water. I tasted it tentatively and a feeling of smug superiority washed over me. I’d won the battle of the soups. I’d chosen stinky cabbage soup and it turned out to be the best soup EVER. Mr G tried it and agreed. His was also good, but mine was definitely better.

We all loved the haggis bonbons – including Casper. He’d started begging like a show pony once he realised we’d moved on to food he could also eat.

Drier and well fed, we finished with a nice pot of coffee, before heading to Tobermory – our base for the weekend.

Chilling out in Tobermory

The evening we chilled over dinner (which included awesome bread and butter pudding) and fizz at The Park Lodge Hotel (another dog friendly Mull establishment). If you’re familiar with the children’s TV show Balamory, you’d recognise The Park Lodge Hotel as Josie Jump’s cheery yellow house.

Casper snoozed, quietly under our table until a couple of curly-haired blondes arrived with their humans. It was love at first sight for him. He puffed his wee chest up and almost wagged his tail off. He was smitten and it seems the ladies were too – they’d clearly been impressed by the natty dresser wearing a arris Tweed bow tie.

Before heading to bed, we ordered a Baileys Irish Cream nightcap. I remembered too late, the boy had a thing for Baileys. As bold as brass, he took a hearty swigg from my glass before I could stop him.  Mmmm, there’s nothing quite like (unwillingly) sharing your drink with a slobbery Westie.

Stay tuned for more from the wonderful Isle of Mull in my next blog.

Until next time …